Make A Spirited Discovery
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Where the Land Speaks
Text & Photos by Jay Gulick
When our small group arrived on a sunbaked hill in the sweeping Santa Maria Valley of Santa Barbara County, rancher and winemaker James Ontiveros greeted us with a smile and a refreshing mid-morning glass of his Native9 Pinot Noir.
Wearing rumpled Wranglers, a gleaming, oversized belt buckle and a broad-brimmed cowboy hat, Ontiveros looked every bit the guy who attended Cal Poly-San Luis Obispo thirty years ago on a rodeo scholarship.
The Ontiveros family arrived in California from Sinaloa, Mexico during the American Revolution in 1781, making James the ninth generation to farm this fertile valley. In addition to Native9, Ranchos de Ontiveros produces crisp, neutral oak chardonnays under the Rancho Viñedo label.
After 30 years in the wine business, Ontiveros is certain that the vintages produced in Santa Barbara occupy a unique and distinguished place in the industry. “There is an energy and freshness in these wines, from A to Zed, that you don’t get anywhere else.”
Over three cloudless June days in Santa Barbara, I learned the only thing as vibrant and interesting as the impressive selection of California wines being produced in the region is the passionate and accomplished community of winemakers crafting them—although most of them prefer the focus remains squarely on the wine. “The wine is not about me,” insists Jessica Gasca, founder and winemaker at artisanal winery Story of Soil in Los Olivos. “It’s about the place.”
A New Era for Oregon Bubbly
This past March, a growing coalition of Oregon sparkling wine producers came together to launch Method Oregon, a nonprofit focused on making Oregon known for top-quality traditional-method sparkling wine and sharing the story of the state’s fast-growing bubbles scene.
Method Oregon was created by sparkling winemakers for sparkling winemakers, uniting over 45 wineries from across the state. The group includes both longtime producers and new brands, all dedicated to making outstanding traditional-method sparkling wine. Their goal is to highlight great wines, sustainable farming, and the unique character that sets Oregon sparkling wine apart.